Blackwork

Blackwork involves the use of black thread on a white background fabric. Although black was the most popular colour, examples survive that use other colours, including red, blue and purple.

Background

Blackwork became popular in England during the reign of Henry VIII, and the style is often called Spanishe Worke, a name given to it due to its introduction to England being linked with the Henry's wife, Catherine of Aragon.

The portrait painter Hans Holbein the Younger became court painter to Henry VIII, and he painted Henry's queens wearing dresses richly decorated with Blackwork. The double-running stitch employed in Blackwork is often called Holbein stitch.

During its most popular period of usage, three distinct styles of blackwork emerge, all of which co-existed together.

Materials Used

The most common materials for working blackwork in the 16th Century were black silk thread on a white linen ground. Many such examples survive today.

Stitches and Techniques

• Holbein or double running stitch - used mostly for reversable blackwork, used on collars, cuffs and any items where both sides would be visible.
• Stem stitch - used as an outline stitch when doing free form and geometric blackwork.
• Braid or plaited stitches - used for making stems or adding texture to free form and geometric blackwork.