Germanic embroidery

Background

The Germanic lands of Europe have a long tradition of embroidery. In the period covered by the SCA, there are two types of embroidery for which this area is particularly well known- whitework and wool embroidery.

Materials Used

• white linen thread on linen ground (Whitework)
• coloured wool on linen ground using couching
• coloured wool, silk on linen ground using brick stitch

Stitches and Techniques

• Whitework generally consisted of chain stitch, stem stitch and satin stitch on a linen ground using linen thread.
• wool work was generally done using a self couching or klosterstitch.
• both wool, silk and linen were used for brick stitch pieces.

Design

• Whitework pieces were either secular or ecclesiastical, however, this technique was a popular one for adorning alter clothes to be used at Lent.
• Wool work was mostly secular, with moral tales being a popular topic.

A point to note is the popularity of heraldic display in Germanic embroidery.

Extant Pieces

• Stole with Images of the Martyrdom of Saint Catherine, ca. 1200

German (Rhineland) or English - Red silk, linen underlay, crimson silk tabby, metal threads (strips of gold and silver leaf wrapped on linen thread); 7 7/8 x 19 1/4 in. (19.7 x 48.9 cm) - http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/litu/hob_64.101.1382.htm

• The Malterer Hanging - 14th C wool work

• 14th C Whitework Altar Cloth - http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/mona/hob_29.87.htm

• 15th C Silk Band - http://www.thorngrove.net/athenaeum/gillyflw.htm

Brick Stitch

• Large Collection of 14th and 15th Century Westphalian Embroidery -

http://www.wymarc.com/pages/816937/index.htm

• Pictures from the V&A of 14th and 15th Century German brickwork
  • Embroidered bands - http://www.drakt.org/Embroidery/Embroidered_bands.html
  • Silk embroidered bag - http://www.drakt.org/Embroidery/V_A_1.html
  • Silk embroidered pouch - http://www.drakt.org/Embroidery/V_A_3.html
  • Silk embroidered stole - http://www.drakt.org/Embroidery/V_A_2.html
  • Silk and linen embroidered bag - http://www.drakt.org/Embroidery/V_A_4.htmle

• 14th C Silk Altar Cloth- late 14th century German Silk on linen; 63 x 62 1/2 in. (160 x 158.8 cm) - http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/07/euwc/hob_69.106.htm