Germanic embroidery

Background

The Germanic lands of Europe have a long tradition of embroidery. In the period covered by the SCA, there are two types of embroidery for which this area is particularly well known, these include Whitework and wool embroidery.

Materials Used

• white linen thread on linen ground (Whitework)
• coloured wool on linen ground using couching
• coloured wool on linen ground using brick stitch

Stitches and Techniques

• Whitework generally consisted of chain stitch, stem stitch and satin stitch on a linen ground using linen thread.
• wool work was generally done using a self couching or klosterstitch.
• both wool and linen were used for brick stitch pieces.

Design

• Whitework pieces were either secular or ecclesiastical, however, this technique was a popular one for adorning alter clothes to be used at Lent.
• Wool work was mostly secular, with moral tales being a popular topic.

A point to note is the popularity of heraldic display in Germanic embroidery.

Extant Pieces

• Stole with Images of the Martyrdom of Saint Catherine, ca. 1200

German (Rhineland) or English - Red silk, linen underlay, crimson silk tabby, metal threads (strips of gold and silver leaf wrapped on linen thread); 7 7/8 x 19 1/4 in. (19.7 x 48.9 cm) - http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/litu/hob_64.101.1382.htm

• The Malterer Hanging - 14th C wool work

• Large Collection of 14th and 15th Century Westphalian Embroidery -

http://www.wymarc.com/pages/816937/index.htm

• 14th C Whitework Altar Cloth - http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/mona/hob_29.87.htm

• 14th C Silk Altar Cloth- late 14th century German Silk on linen; 63 x 62 1/2 in. (160 x 158.8 cm) - http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/07/euwc/hob_69.106.htm

• 15th C Silk Band - http://www.thorngrove.net/athenaeum/gillyflw.htm