Mead brewing - Revision history

Toad: /* Recipes */

2008-08-14T01:19:13Z

Recipes

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:19, 14 August 2008
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	* [[Basic sweet mead]]		* [[Basic sweet mead]]
	* [[Syr Michael of York Mead]]		* [[Syr Michael of York Mead]]
			* [[Elizabethan Mead]]

	[[Category:Brewing]]		[[Category:Brewing]]

141.142.222.26: alternate opinion on yeast choice

2007-01-05T15:11:25Z

alternate opinion on yeast choice

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:11, 6 January 2007
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	== Yeast ==		== Yeast ==
	Do not, I repeat DO NOT use beer yeast in mead. Yes, there's a recipe below which does - but that's meant to be an ultra-fast brew and not a "pinnacle of the meads" type of recipe.		Do not, I repeat DO NOT use beer yeast in mead. Yes, there's a recipe below which does - but that's meant to be an ultra-fast brew and not a "pinnacle of the meads" type of recipe.

			''One brewer's alternate opinion: As an experienced and award-winning brewer of beer and mead, I take exception to the recommendation against using beer yeast for mead. I find that using a good-fermenting and fairly neutral-character ale yeast yields an off-dry, wonderful mead. Two I have used to good effect are Danstar Nottingham and Wyeast 1056 American Ale. I have experimented with various wine yeasts but have gone back to using ale yeast for all my meads.''

	The best yeast to use depends on what type of mead you are aiming at. You can make mead sweet, dry or... in between. So you can choose yeast that:		The best yeast to use depends on what type of mead you are aiming at. You can make mead sweet, dry or... in between. So you can choose yeast that:

24.162.249.209: /* Honey: where, what type? */

2006-12-21T02:18:40Z

Honey: where, what type?

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:18, 21 December 2006
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	The biggest issue generally facing a prospective mead-maker is what type/where to get your honey. Really, as with most things, it's a matter of taste. If you're making a basic mead, the taste of the honey is the most important thing (as it's really the only thing in your mead that gives it taste). Go to the honey-making places and do all their free tasting (yum). Try the different varieties and see what you like best (presumably you'll be drinking most of your mead so you'd better like it).		The biggest issue generally facing a prospective mead-maker is what type/where to get your honey. Really, as with most things, it's a matter of taste. If you're making a basic mead, the taste of the honey is the most important thing (as it's really the only thing in your mead that gives it taste). Go to the honey-making places and do all their free tasting (yum). Try the different varieties and see what you like best (presumably you'll be drinking most of your mead so you'd better like it).

		⚫	Remember, if it has a nasty aftertase, it'll be horrible in mead - go for something smooth.
	A few things to be aware of are:
	# <span style="text-decoration: line-through">supermarket honey is generally cut with glucose - some of them up to 30-50% (or so I'm told) - and that means sweet but no flavour.</span> This is simply not true, at least in the USA (and it would be HFCS, not glucose). I am a beekeeper. The real reasons not to use supermarket honey are that (1) the subtle nuances of the honey have been pasteurized out, (2) it's mixed with a zillion other varieties of honey so you loose a lot of the honey's character, and (3) most of the cheap honey you find comes from China, Asia (other than China) or South America and is of lower quality. Sue Bee honey is from the US so point #3 doesn't apply to them. Buy local honey. It is simply better. And buy the best local varieties.
⚫	# if it has a nasty aftertase, it'll be horrible in mead - go for something smooth.

	Raw honey, straight from an apiarist is my preference - it's often the cheapest too - especially if you can buy in bulk. Don't forget, honey doesn't go "off" so you can buy yourself a 27kg food-safe bucket full and stick it under a table somewhere and use it for years as long as you keep in covered. If it's a good honey, it's generally worth it, and you might have a store of honey to offer other mead-makers if there's another drought/worldwide shortage (like there has been recently).		Raw honey, straight from an apiarist is my preference - it's often the cheapest too - especially if you can buy in bulk. Don't forget, honey doesn't go "off" so you can buy yourself a 27kg food-safe bucket full and stick it under a table somewhere and use it for years as long as you keep in covered. If it's a good honey, it's generally worth it, and you might have a store of honey to offer other mead-makers if there's another drought/worldwide shortage (like there has been recently).

24.162.249.209: /* Honey: where, what type? */

2006-12-21T02:08:07Z

Honey: where, what type?

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:08, 21 December 2006
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	A few things to be aware of are:		A few things to be aware of are:
			# <span style="text-decoration: line-through">supermarket honey is generally cut with glucose - some of them up to 30-50% (or so I'm told) - and that means sweet but no flavour.</span> This is simply not true, at least in the USA (and it would be HFCS, not glucose). I am a beekeeper. The real reasons not to use supermarket honey are that (1) the subtle nuances of the honey have been pasteurized out, (2) it's mixed with a zillion other varieties of honey so you loose a lot of the honey's character, and (3) most of the cheap honey you find comes from China, Asia (other than China) or South America and is of lower quality. Sue Bee honey is from the US so point #3 doesn't apply to them. Buy local honey. It is simply better. And buy the best local varieties.
	# supermarket honey is generally cut with glucose - some of them up to 30-50% (or so I'm told) - and that means sweet but no flavour.
	# if it has a nasty aftertase, it'll be horrible in mead - go for something smooth.		# if it has a nasty aftertase, it'll be horrible in mead - go for something smooth.

Cian: spelling

2004-08-24T02:41:44Z

spelling

Show changes

Taryn: typos

2004-07-13T02:12:17Z

typos

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:12, 13 July 2004
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	This is probably do-able if you have only a gallon, but it becomes a chore when you do five 1-gallon pots-worth for your 5-gallon demi-john.		This is probably do-able if you have only a gallon, but it becomes a chore when you do five 1-gallon pots-worth for your 5-gallon demi-john.

	The argument for boiling is that the "scum' you pull out would otherwise make the mead cloudy and ick.		The argument for boiling is that the "scum" you pull out would otherwise make the mead cloudy and ick.

	My feeling is that, sure, in period, this was great advice - your honey would normally be full of pollen, bee-bits and random ~~bits~~ of suspended beeswax. However, these days your local supermarket honey is pasteurised and homogenised as well as filtered, so highly unlikely to be of the random "raw" quality of the ~~1600~~'s. I get my honey "raw" from an apiarist and even they filter it very finely out before handing it over.		My feeling is that, sure, in period, this was great advice - your honey would normally be full of pollen, bee-bits and random chunks of suspended beeswax. However, these days your local supermarket honey is pasteurised and homogenised as well as filtered, so highly unlikely to be of the random "raw" quality of the 1500's. I get my honey "raw" from an apiarist and even they filter it very finely out before handing it over.

	The main argument against boiling is that boiling "boils off" the volatile components of the honey - and destroys natural enzymes ~~any~~ "wholesome goodness" ~~stuff~~ (that I have so far been unable to find anyone to fully describe to me).		The main argument against boiling is that boiling "boils off" the volatile components of the honey - and destroys natural enzymes and "wholesome goodness" (that I have so far been unable to find anyone to fully describe to me).

	Personally I'm not so certain of either argument, and therefore i go with my gut-instinct for laziness... again.		Personally I'm not so certain of either argument, and therefore I go with my gut-instinct for laziness... again.

⚫	If you're making show-quality mead, maybe you'd like to be certain that it'll be clear and go with boiling - but then maybe you'll be worried that you'll boil off the more complex flavours... i personally don't boil. If my mead ever goes cloudy because of it ~~9hasn~~'t yet) I'll throw in some dolomite - which is the usual way to clear suspension hazes anyway.

		⚫	If you're making show-quality mead, maybe you'd like to be certain that it'll be clear and go with boiling - but then maybe you'll be worried that you'll boil off the more complex flavours... I personally don't boil. If my mead ever goes cloudy because of it (hasn't yet) I'll throw in some dolomite - which is the usual way to clear suspension hazes anyway.

	=== To stop the ferment or not ===		=== To stop the ferment or not ===

Taryn: typos

2004-07-13T02:09:03Z

typos

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:09, 13 July 2004
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	=== To sterilise or not to sterilise ===		=== To sterilise or not to sterilise ===
	I've heard arguments both for and against sterilisation. Sure, they didn't do it in period. Sure, some batches may have been lost. Sure, the initial ~~busrt~~ of yeast-activity generally kills off most competition.		I've heard arguments both for and against sterilisation. Sure, they didn't do it in period. Sure, some batches may have been lost. Sure, the initial burst of yeast-activity generally kills off most competition.

	For me, it came down to personal laziness.... sterilising everything takes time, smells bad and is actually bad for you - especially when the metabisulphate sets off your migraine (like it does for me). I've been brewing for two years since i stopped ~~asterlising~~ (5 years all up so far) and I ~~haen~~'t lost a batch yet... that doesn't ~~mead~~ I won't ever, but I've put out at least 21 gallons in that time without losing anything yet and I think that's a good enough ratio for myself.		For me, it came down to personal laziness.... sterilising everything takes time, smells bad and is actually bad for you - especially when the metabisulphate sets off your migraine (like it does for me). I've been brewing for two years since I stopped sterilising (5 years all up so far) and I haven't lost a batch yet... that doesn't mean I won't ever, but I've put out at least 21 gallons in that time without losing anything yet and I think that's a good enough ratio for myself.
	However, if you have a messy kitchen or you're just beginning or just don't trust fate as much - feel free - many people do sterilise and most people swear by it. I do sterilise in some ~~cirumstance~~ - eg where I'm using second-hand bottles that haven't been washed out and the dregs may have gone vinegary... not good. My advice is to read all your options and decide based on your own abilities.		However, if you have a messy kitchen or you're just beginning or just don't trust fate as much - feel free - many people do sterilise and most people swear by it. I do sterilise in some cirumstances - eg where I'm using second-hand bottles that haven't been washed out and the dregs may have gone vinegary... not good. My advice is to read all your options and decide based on your own abilities.

	However - if you choose to sterilise, make sure you use common sense and BE CAREFUL.		However - if you choose to sterilise, make sure you use common sense and BE CAREFUL.
	# metabisulphate must always be used out in the open or at least with the windows open and try real hard not to inhale the stuff - it's nasty!		# metabisulphate must always be used out in the open or at least with the windows open and try real hard not to inhale the stuff - it's nasty!
	# don't use anything apart from proper brewers steriliser. Bleach is not good for you when you finally have to drink the stuff!		# don't use anything apart from proper brewers steriliser. Bleach is not good for you when you finally have to drink the stuff!
	# read the instructions on the packet/bottle. Especially as regards the dilution-strength nd whether to rinse the bottles out afterwards or not.		# read the instructions on the packet/bottle. Especially as regards the dilution-strength and whether to rinse the bottles out afterwards or not.


	=== To boil or not to boil ===		=== To boil or not to boil ===

Taryn: spellfixes/typos

2004-07-13T02:05:58Z

spellfixes/typos

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:05, 13 July 2004
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	3. if you're making a pyment or melomel, I can't help you - the amount of variation is very wide and you really have to consult the individual recipe you are using, or, if you aren't using a recipe, make a guess based on what percentage of the mel will be "mead" and what will be "your-fruit wine" and use the honey-ratios (below) for the mead bit and a "your-fruit" wine recipe for the other		3. if you're making a pyment or melomel, I can't help you - the amount of variation is very wide and you really have to consult the individual recipe you are using, or, if you aren't using a recipe, make a guess based on what percentage of the mel will be "mead" and what will be "your-fruit wine" and use the honey-ratios (below) for the mead bit and a "your-fruit" wine recipe for the other

	2. it's another guessing game depending on how sweet/dry you want it to end up. I've experimented with all three and to give a basic idea - if you're using champagne yeast add a kilo or two, if you're using sweet yeast, take one away... however - that assumes you want a medium mead. Maybe you want it dry as a desert or ~~dickly~~-~~dweet~~... really it's a guesing game. Just remember, ~~thoguh~~ - you can ~~alwasy~~ add more honey if it's not sweet enough... but you can't take it out again if it's too ~~sickly~~. So if in doubt, add the lower amount and add some more later. it'll make the ferment a little longer, but if that will make the end result drinkable, then it's worth it!		2. it's another guessing game depending on how sweet/dry you want it to end up. I've experimented with all three and to give a basic idea - if you're using champagne yeast add a kilo or two, if you're using sweet yeast, take one away... however - that assumes you want a medium mead. Maybe you want it dry as a desert or sickly-sweet... really it's a guesing game. Just remember, though - you can always add more honey if it's not sweet enough... but you can't take it out again if it's too cloying. So if in doubt, add the lower amount and add some more later. It'll make the ferment a little longer, but if that will make the end result drinkable, then it's worth it!

	1. ok, I've never made a really dry mead as i personally can't stand the stuff, so I can't reliably comment on the amount of honey to use.		1. ok, I've never made a really dry mead as I personally can't stand the stuff, so I can't reliably comment on the amount of honey to use.
	I generally make sack meads - which means they're quite sweet - but not sickly. ~~base~~ ~~don~~ this I'd give the following VERY approximate guide:		I generally make sack meads - which means they're quite sweet - but not sickly. Based on this I'd give the following VERY approximate guide:

	kg honey per imperial gallon:		kg honey per imperial gallon:
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	# sweet - 10-12kg		# sweet - 10-12kg

	Be aware that when you get to about 12kg of honey, ~~youy~~ are running dangerously close to creating a [[stuck ferment]], so a beginner would be safer with about 10kg for a sweet mead - and maybe adding more later if they felt the need.		Be aware that when you get to about 12kg of honey, you are running dangerously close to creating a [[stuck ferment]], so a beginner would be safer with about 10kg for a sweet mead - and maybe adding more later if they felt the need.

⚫	Another complicating factor can be the "strength' of the honey itself. When i switched from supermarket honey to the real stuff, I noticed a huge difference in how strong/sweet the mead I made was. Pure honey is much stronger in flavour - though I'm not sure what the concentration-difference (fi ~~any0~~ of the sugars is between pure honey and honey-glucose supermarket mixes.

		⚫	Another complicating factor can be the "strength" of the honey itself. When I switched from supermarket honey to the real stuff, I noticed a huge difference in how strong/sweet the mead I made was. Pure honey is much stronger in flavour - though I'm not sure what the concentration-difference (if any) of the sugars is between pure honey and honey-glucose supermarket mixes.

	== Safety ==		== Safety ==

Tobin: forcing re-evaluation of links

2004-07-08T08:46:53Z

forcing re-evaluation of links

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:46, 8 July 2004
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⚫	[[Category:Brewing]]

	[[Mead]] is a fermented drink made from [[honey]]. Brewing mead is one of the easiest and most rewarding of the brewing arts (if you like to drink mead, that is).		[[Mead]] is a fermented drink made from [[honey]]. Brewing mead is one of the easiest and most rewarding of the brewing arts (if you like to drink mead, that is).

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	* [[Basic sweet mead]]		* [[Basic sweet mead]]
	* [[Syr Michael of York Mead]]		* [[Syr Michael of York Mead]]

		⚫	[[Category:Brewing]]

Morgant: categorising

2003-09-05T06:17:38Z

categorising

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:17, 5 September 2003
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			[[Category:Brewing]]

	[[Mead]] is a fermented drink made from [[honey]]. Brewing mead is one of the easiest and most rewarding of the brewing arts (if you like to drink mead, that is).		[[Mead]] is a fermented drink made from [[honey]]. Brewing mead is one of the easiest and most rewarding of the brewing arts (if you like to drink mead, that is).

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	== Controversies ==		== Controversies ==


	=== To sterilise or not to sterilise ===		=== To sterilise or not to sterilise ===