Cunnan - User contributions [en]

Karaginu mo

2007-02-04T23:28:20Z

Wodeford:

Karaginu mo is the most formal court dress worn by ladies of the Imperial Court, dating to Heian Period (794-1172 CE).

The foundation layer consists of a white [[kosode]], a plain robe with a small sleeve opening. Worn over this are scarlet nagabakama, trousers whose trailing hems are longer than the wearer's legs.

Kasane no irome refers to a set of robes arranged in a combination of colors that evokes a particular image of nature appropriate to the season or occasion. Worn over the [[kosode]] and nagabakama, a kasane consists of a hitoe (unlined inner robe) and five additional uchigi (robes) which may be lined or unlined depending on the season. In the early part of the Heian period, the kasane might include as many as forty uchigi, however, a sumptuary law passed in 1074 limited the number of uchigi to five.

Liza Dalby's ''Kimono: Fashioning Culture'' contains an excellent chapter on the colors and symbolism of kasane no irome.

Over these, the court lady would wear an uwagi, usually of figured silk with some sort of pattern. For less formal occasions, the uwagi was the outermost layer and therefore showier than the inner robes.

On the most formal occasions, the karaginu ("Chinese jacket") and mo completed the lady's ensemble. The karaginu is cut with shorter open sleeves and hems to show the layers beneath. The mo, a long white train whose construction is often compared to a "backwards apron" might be decorated with dye or metallic leaf attached with rice paste.

The term juni-hitoe is sometimes used to describe Heian ladies' dress. Meaning "twelve unlined robes", "juni-hitoe" appears to have come into use during the Edo period.

==External links==
*''[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/ Kyoto Costume Museum]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm Kosode Made Simple]
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html Yûsoku Kojitsu Ron: A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/karaginumo.htm Karaginu Mo]
*''[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/index.html Re-enactor's Guide to Pre-Tokugawa Japan]
[[category:clothing]]

Karaginu mo

2007-02-04T23:27:16Z

Wodeford:

Karaginu mo is the most formal court dress worn by ladies of the Imperial Court, dating to Heian Period (794-1172 CE).

The foundation layer consists of a white kosode, a plain robe with a small sleeve opening. Worn over this are scarlet nagabakama, trousers whose trailing hems are longer than the wearer's legs.

Kasane no irome refers to a set of robes arranged in a combination of colors that evokes a particular image of nature appropriate to the season or occasion. Worn over the kosode and hakama, a kasane consists of a hitoe (unlined inner robe) and five additional uchigi (robes) which may be lined or unlined depending on the season. In the early part of the Heian period, the kasane might include as many as forty uchigi, however, a sumptuary law passed in 1074 limited the number of uchigi to five.

Liza Dalby's ''Kimono: Fashioning Culture'' contains an excellent chapter on the colors and symbolism of kasane no irome.

Over these, the court lady would wear an uwagi, usually of figured silk with some sort of pattern. For less formal occasions, the uwagi was the outermost layer and therefore showier than the inner robes.

On the most formal occasions, the karaginu ("Chinese jacket") and mo completed the lady's ensemble. The karaginu is cut with shorter open sleeves and hems to show the layers beneath. The mo, a long white train whose construction is often compared to a "backwards apron" might be decorated with dye or metallic leaf attached with rice paste.

The term juni-hitoe is sometimes used to describe Heian ladies' dress. Meaning "twelve unlined robes", "juni-hitoe" appears to have come into use during the Edo period.

==External links==
*''[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/ Kyoto Costume Museum]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm Kosode Made Simple]
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html Yûsoku Kojitsu Ron: A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/karaginumo.htm Karaginu Mo]
*''[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/index.html Re-enactor's Guide to Pre-Tokugawa Japan]
[[category:clothing]]

Japanese clothing

2007-02-04T23:06:18Z

Wodeford:

The construction of '''Japanese clothing''' is almost all based on a very simple pattern of rectangles. While any given garment has a characteristic width, in general [[Japan|Japanese]] [[fabric]] is much narrower than [[Europe]]an, and the construction of [[clothing]] reflects this: it takes about 4 widths to adequately cover an average person.

The basic Japanese garments are the [[kosode]] and [[hakama]], both of which are worn, with minor variations, by men and women alike. The kosode is a robe which overlaps in front (always left over right, unless the wearer is dead or expects to be shortly); hakama are variously described as a divided [[skirt]] or very full [[pants]]. The kosode as [[underwear]] is invariably white, though when worn as a visible garment it may be any color. Women's hakama, particularly nagabakama worn with high court costume, are often red. Patterns for these two garments may be found [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html here].

Over the kosode and hakama one may wear any number of other [[robe]]s, depending on one's gender, class, and occasion.

This practice reached its full flower in the [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Irome.htm Heian] period with the [[karaginu mo]].

==External links==
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html Yûsoku Kojitsu Ron: A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm Kosode Made Simple]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/samurai.htm Samurai For The SCA Guy]
*''[http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/ Tanki Yoriaku: Hi Ko Ben]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/karaginumo.htm Karaginu Mo: Formal Court Costume of Medieval Japan]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/display.htm I Am The Display: An Informal Court Costume of Medieval Japan]
*''[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/index.html Reconstructing History - Japanese]
*''[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/ Kyoto Costume Museum]
[[category:clothing]]

Japanese clothing

2007-02-04T23:04:18Z

Wodeford: /* External links */

The construction of '''Japanese clothing''' is almost all based on a very simple pattern of rectangles. While any given garment has a characteristic width, in general [[Japan|Japanese]] [[fabric]] is much narrower than [[Europe]]an, and the construction of [[clothing]] reflects this: it takes about 4 widths to adequately cover an average person.

The basic Japanese garments are the [[kosode]] and [[hakama]], both of which are worn, with minor variations, by men and women alike. The kosode is a robe which overlaps in front (always left over right, unless the wearer is dead or expects to be shortly); hakama are variously described as a divided [[skirt]] or very full [[pants]]. The kosode as [[underwear]] is invariably white, though when worn as a visible garment it may be any color. Women's hakama, particularly nagabakama worn with high court costume, are often red. Patterns for these two garments may be found [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html here].

Over the kosode and hakama one may wear any number of other [[robe]]s, depending on one's gender, class, and occasion.

This practice reached its full flower in the [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Irome.htm Heian] period with the karaginu mo.

==External links==
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html Yûsoku Kojitsu Ron: A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm Kosode Made Simple]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/samurai.htm Samurai For The SCA Guy]
*''[http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/ Tanki Yoriaku: Hi Ko Ben]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/karaginumo.htm Karaginu Mo: Formal Court Costume of Medieval Japan]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/display.htm I Am The Display: An Informal Court Costume of Medieval Japan]
*''[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/index.html Reconstructing History - Japanese]
*''[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/ Kyoto Costume Museum]
[[category:clothing]]

Japanese clothing

2007-02-04T23:03:12Z

Wodeford:

The construction of '''Japanese clothing''' is almost all based on a very simple pattern of rectangles. While any given garment has a characteristic width, in general [[Japan|Japanese]] [[fabric]] is much narrower than [[Europe]]an, and the construction of [[clothing]] reflects this: it takes about 4 widths to adequately cover an average person.

The basic Japanese garments are the [[kosode]] and [[hakama]], both of which are worn, with minor variations, by men and women alike. The kosode is a robe which overlaps in front (always left over right, unless the wearer is dead or expects to be shortly); hakama are variously described as a divided [[skirt]] or very full [[pants]]. The kosode as [[underwear]] is invariably white, though when worn as a visible garment it may be any color. Women's hakama, particularly nagabakama worn with high court costume, are often red. Patterns for these two garments may be found [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html here].

Over the kosode and hakama one may wear any number of other [[robe]]s, depending on one's gender, class, and occasion.

This practice reached its full flower in the [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Irome.htm Heian] period with the karaginu mo.

==External links==
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html Yûsoku Kojitsu Ron: A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm Kosode Made Simple]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/samurai.htm Samurai For The SCA Guy]
*''[http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/ Tanki Yoriaku: Hi Ko Ben]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/karaginumo.htm Karaginu Mo: Formal Court Costume of Medieval Japan]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/display.htm I Am The Display: An Informal Court Costume of Medieval Japan]
*''[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/index.html]
*''[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/ Kyoto Costume Museum]
[[category:clothing]]

Hakama

2007-02-04T21:15:43Z

Wodeford:

Hakama are an item of traditional Japanese clothing resembling a wide, pleated skirt.

Men traditionally wear two general types hakama, umanori (divided) and andon (undivided). Umanori, "horse riding hakama" are divided like trousers, with a much lower crotch seam that we are familiar with in Western garments. Andon hakama are skirtlike.

Modern umanori hakama incorporate a stiffened back board into the rear waistband, known as a koshi-ita. This feature does not appear to have been common prior to the Edo period (1603-1867 CE), though there is some iconographic evidence that the koshi-ita begins to appear in the late 16th century.

During the Heian period (795-1192 CE) women of the court classes wore nagabakama, a type of hakama with hems so long the wearer walked on them, usually red in color. During the Edo period, men of the samurai class began to wear nagabakama with matching kataginu.

Hakama for women fell out of fashion some time after the Kamakura period (1193-1333 CE) as they began to wear kosode as an outergarment. During the Meiji Restoration (1867-1912 CE), hakama returned to women's wear for students or working girls, often combined with Western blouses and hairstyles. In contemporary Japan, hakama and furisode are worn by young graduates.

The symbolism and number of pleats or styles of tying hakama are almost as varied as the martial arts disciplines which use them as teaching tools. There is no evidence that these symbols predate the Edo period.

==External links==
*''[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/ Kyoto Costume Museum]
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/ch16.html Underneath It All (includes hitatare and hakama patterns)]
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html Yûsoku Kojitsu Ron: A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/samurai.htm Samurai For The SCA Guy]
*''[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/index.html Re-enactor's Guide to Pre-Tokugawa Japan]
*''[http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/ Tanki Yoriaku: Hi Ko Ben]
[[category:clothing]]

Japanese clothing

2007-02-04T20:49:10Z

Wodeford:

The construction of '''Japanese clothing''' is almost all based on a very simple pattern of rectangles. While any given garment has a characteristic width, in general [[Japan|Japanese]] [[fabric]] is much narrower than [[Europe]]an, and the construction of [[clothing]] reflects this: it takes about 4 widths to adequately cover an average person.

The basic Japanese garments are the [[kosode]] and [[hakama]], both of which are worn, with minor variations, by men and women alike. The kosode is a robe which overlaps in front (always left over right, unless the wearer is dead or expects to be shortly); hakama are variously described as a divided [[skirt]] or very full [[pants]]. The kosode as [[underwear]] is invariably white, though when worn as a visible garment it may be any color. Women's hakama, particularly nagabakama worn with high court costume, are often red. Patterns for these two garments may be found [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html here].

Over the kosode and hakama one may wear any number of other [[robe]]s, depending on one's gender, class, and occasion.

This practice reached its full flower in the [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Irome.htm Heian] period.

==External links==
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html Yûsoku Kojitsu Ron: A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm Kosode Made Simple]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/samurai.htm Samurai For The SCA Guy]
*''[http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/ Tanki Yoriaku: Hi Ko Ben]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/karaginumo.htm Karaginu Mo: Formal Court Costume of Medieval Japan]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/display.htm I Am The Display: An Informal Court Costume of Medieval Japan]
*''[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/index.html]
*''[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/ Kyoto Costume Museum]
[[category:clothing]]

Kosode

2007-02-04T20:39:22Z

Wodeford:

The word "kosode" literally means "small sleeve" in Japanese, and refers to a robe with small sleeve openings, differentiating it from the wide, open fronted sleeved outergarments worn by both men and women of the court during the Heian period (794-1172 CE). Originally a plain white undergarment, the kosode became more visible during the Kamakura period (1172-1333 CE) and began making the transition to outerwear, particularly for women. During the Meiji Restoration (1868-1912), as Japan began to adopt Western fashion, the term "kimono" ("thing to wear") came into common usage as a way to differentiate between Western and Japanese dress.

==External links==
*''[http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/ Kyoto Costume Museum]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/kosode.htm Kosode Made Simple]
*''[http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/index.html Yûsoku Kojitsu Ron: A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories]
*''[http://www.wodefordhall.com/samurai.htm Samurai For The SCA Guy]
*''[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/index.html Re-enactor's Guide to Pre-Tokugawa Japan]
[[category:clothing]]