Cunnan - User contributions [en]

Shoes

2009-06-03T19:46:10Z

Melissa: /* Health Issues */

'''Shoes''' is a general modern term for a class of [[clothing|costume]] worn on the feet, ostensibly to protect the feet, although often footwear is worn simply for style.

===History===
In the [[Middle Ages]] in English, the term referred specifically to a sort of footwear that only came to the level of the ankle, or lower on the foot.

During the [[Middle Ages]] there were many types and styles of footwear. These were made from a variety of different styles of construction, the three most common being single piece construction, turned construction, and an early version of modern welted construction. Other forms that appear in the archaeology are [[wood]]en shoes, [[pattens]], shoes of woven cord, [[sandals]], and even in some rare cases, shoes with metal soles.

===Single Piece Construction===
The simplest technology for making a shoe is the single piece construction. In this type of construction, a single piece of [[leather]] or [[hide]] is used to make a single shoe, usually by wrapping around the foot. This is then either stitched up the back and centre seam, or gathered up around the circumference. They were most frequently made from of undressed, untanned, or [[rawhide]]. The ease of manufacture and replacement meant that this sort of footwear was most often worn by the lowest of [[social class]]es.

These shoes first appear in the literature and archaeology in Europe during the [[Bronze Age]] and were among the earliest of shoes among the [[Greek]]s, [[Roman]]s and early [[Celtic]] peoples. They continued to be worn until the [[20th century]], where they eventually become little more than a part of some traditional folk dress.

These shoes are frequently called, among other names: Brogue, Carbatíne, Hudsko, Kreplau, Llopan, Moccasin, Opanke, Pampootie, Pedules, Rewylynys, Rifeling, Rivelins, Rivilin, Riwelingas, Rowlingas, Rullions, Rulyions, Skin-sko, Culponius, Peronatus, and Carpatinæ. These terms are all accurate for specific regional or cultural variations, but none of them is really correct for the concept as a general term. The terms Ghillies, and Ghillie Brogues are completely inaccurate, as these terms refer to a modern style of dance slipper. The most common medieval English term is Revelin.

During the [[Classical]] period, the Greeks and Romans appear to have started making these shoes from oil cured and tanned hides with attached soles. It is from these that eventually turned shoes derive beginning in the [[4th century|300s]].

===Turned Construction===
Turned work indicates a shoe or boot that has been made inside out, then turned right-side out. As mentioned above, turned work first appears in [[Europe]] in the 4th century in Roman shoemaking, and remains in use for various sorts of shoes until the middle of the 20th century, at which point they were used for little more than dance slippers, and baby ''first shoes''. It should be noted that the earliest known turned shoes appear in the archeaology during the Egyptian 18th Dynasty at Deir el-Medina.

From the early [[Middle Ages]] until the early [[15th century]], turned shoes were worn by most of the higher [[social class]]es.

''Turned shoes'' were often single-sole shoes that to modern sensibilities often seem like slippers. These were most often made on a [[Last]], (or a specially carved wooden form). They were made with specific rights and lefts, as opposed to the much later straight lasted shoes. While it is possible to make turned shoes without a last, these are generally not as well made, and do not reflect the archaeology.

During the Middle Ages, turned shoes were often made with a welt set between the overleathers (or uppers) and the sole, hence the [[Latin]] terms Intercucium and Intercutium. The use of this welt (which also first appears in Egyptian shoes) serves to protect the thread in the turned seam, and eventually to create a more snug fit on lasted shoes. This welt is often referred to erroneously as a "rand" by modern Archaeologists, and this usage has slipped into the re-enacting and recreationist communities.

During the High Middle Ages, some double soled shoes were made, with a heavier outer sole, to extend the life of the shoe, and give greater protection to the foot. These soles are sometimes erroniously referred to as "[[clump sole]]s" and "turned-welt construction" by archaeologists.

===Welted Construction===
''Welted shoes'' is a modern term for shoes that were made right-side out on a last. In this case, the welt is moved from between the Uppers and the inner sole to outside the Uppers, and then layed flat and stitched to the outer sole. This technology made its first appearance during the late [[15th century|1400s]] in [[Germany]]. This construction makes a heavier, stronger shoe, and quickly pushed turned shoes and boots from the upper classes, relegating turned work to servant's and sailor's shoes.

===Heels===
Although integral "spring heels" are often found through the [[16th century|1500s]], separate raised heels are not found until after 1600 on boots, and later on shoes (except in some rare occurrences regarding carved wooden or [[cork]] soles in the 16th century).

===Shoemakers===
Shoemakers (or Cordwainers) and Cobblers are not the same thing. Shoemakers were required to work in new leather, while Cobblers were required to work in old, used leather. There were serious class distinctions between the two. The [[English]] term "Cobbler" and [[German]] name "Schubach" both mean "repairer of shoes". Schuhster is a contemporary German term for a shoemaker.

===Other sorts of footwear===
Overshoes called [[patten]]s were made of wood, cork, or leather soles with a leather strap. They raise the foot up off the ground, extending the life of the shoes and preventing one's foot from getting wet in damp conditions. Medieval terms for these also include: Clog, Clogge, Galache, Galoch, Galosh, Golosh, Galoche, Galegge, Galliochios, Galloche, Gaulish Shoes, Paten, Patyn, Trippe and in Latin; Calopodla, Calopedes, Callopedium, Crepitum, and Crepita. It should be noted that Crepida has other meanings during the Roman period.

Piked shoes, or shoes in the "Polish fashion", also called Poulaines, are turned shoes that have long pointed toes. The length of the point was often a mark of social class. There is no real evidence of piked shoes that were long enough that they had to be chained to the knees, and were there any such they would have been restricted to the highest of Princes.

===Shoes in the SCA===
Shoes are given the least amount of effort by most people in the [[SCA]]. As they are expensive to have made, many people do not see them as a viable part of their portrayal. However, the making of shoes (particularly turnshoes) is relatively simple once the pattern has been made. There are multiple websites with historical patterns on them.

===Shoes in Re-Enactment===
Period shoes are considered ''de rigour'' for most [[metal weapons groups|re-enactment groups]]. The adage: ''Clothes maketh the man'' has been reappropriated to become ''Shoes maketh the man''. Any re-enactment group not making the effort to ensure that their shoes are historically accurate are not generally taken as a serious group.

Making their own shoes is considered a rite of passage by some groups as they learn that shoemaking is not a difficult task nor is it an expensive one.

Movement while wearing period shoes changes slightly and a greater understanding of combat is gained from the experience.

===Health Issues===
Arguments that period shoes are dangerous are typically based on:
* Supposed ankle injuries while wearing armour, but this does not seem to be born out by the numerous re-enactors wearing them every weekend.
* Many archaeological examples of shoes and that have been modified to relieve painful foot ailments, as well as corresponding examples of damage found in bones of people buried in the period. However, it is likely that these were caused by the prevalence of second hand shoes and shoes made in limited sizes worn by the poor.
* Anecdotal incidents of modern people complaining about problems with wearing poorly fitted or badly
made shoes that cause pressure on the tarsals from using improper lasts meant for heels, but have been used to make flat shoes.

''See also:''
* [[Clothing]]
* [[Fashion]]
* [http://apparelus.com/catalog/Shoes_Handbags-49-1.html Wholesale Shoes]

=== External Links ===
*[http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOEHOME.HTM Footwear of the Middle ages] - (there are more extensive links there)
*[http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/wsnlinks/index.php?action=displaycat&catid=45 Atlantian A&S Links: Shoes & Shoemaking]
*[http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/shoe/construction.html Parliament St, York Shoe Pattern]
[[category:clothing]]
[[category:artefact (medieval)]]
[[category:shoes]]

Irish Clothing

2009-05-28T19:27:41Z

Melissa: /* Irish Costume Through Time */

Our knowledge about medieval '''Irish costume''' is rather scanty, because there is little surviving evidence for Irish costume, and what survives is fairly controversial. Anyone wanting to reconstruct Irish costume will have to be prepared to do a lot more research and experimentation than for other periods/localities, especially for earlier periods where information is ''very'' scanty.

==Irish Costume Through Time==

''Overviews:''
*[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/ What the Irish Wore] - a very comprehensive and well researched site of mediaeval Irish costume
*[http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/wsnlinks/index.php?action=displaycat&catid=137 Atlantian A&S Links: Irish Clothing]
*Dress in Ireland: A History, Mairead Dunlevy. Hardcover, Holmes & Meier, 1989, ISBN 0841912696. Paperback, The Collins Press, 1999, ISBN 1898256845
*Old Irish and Highland Dress, with Notes on That of the Isle of Man, H.F. McClintock, Dundalgan Press, 1943; available on CD-ROM through [http://www.scotpress.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=93 Unicorn Limited]. Expanded edition issued 1950.
*stylish and fashionable clothing: there's an new clothes & [http://apparelus.com/catalog/Dresses-38-1.html wholesale dresses] in the U.S california

===Early Period c0-1000AD===
[[Leine]] and [[brat]] were worn by kings in symbolic ways until about 1000
meanwhile shorter [[tunic]]s were also being worn for practical purposes.

''References:''
*[http://homepage.eircom.net/~gael/gaelweb/kit.html Gael Agus Gall Kit Guide]--The sources used by the Irish living history group "Gael Agus Gall" in determining how to dress their 10th-century Gaelic personae are discussed here, with specific citations and descriptions of the images on which they based their choices. They also offer a bibliography of reference texts. While no illustrations are included, many of their primary sources are depicted elsewhere online.
*Henry, Francoise, 1965, "Irish art in the early Christian period, (to 800 A.D.)"
*Henry, Francoise, 1967, "Irish art during the Viking invasions, 800-1020 ad"
*Margaret Williams, "Dressing the Part: Depictions of Noble Costume in Irish High Crosses" in "Encountering medieval textiles and dress : objects, texts, images" (2002), edited by Desiree G. Koslin and Janet Snyder, ISBN 312293771 or ISBN 0312293771
*[http://www.bluffton.edu/~sullivanm/highcrosses/intro.html Some online images of irish high crosses]

===Norman-era Ireland 1100-1200===
Statuary still shows legendary kings in the [[leine]] and [[brat]], however this may be well out of fashion and just used to show the figures as legendary kings.

Other statues depict garments which could be [[t-tunic]]s (or belted up leine's), and also some appear to show [[priestly garb]], similar to [[England|English]] priestly garb or this era. Women appear rarely in statuary. Much more research is needed into this period, but results may be inconclusive due to unclear depictions and the small quantity of evidence.

''References:''
*Henry, Francoise, 1970,"Irish art in the Romanesque period (1020-1170 A.D.)" ISBN 0801405262

===1200-1400===
[[Coathardie]]s in the [[14th Century]] (eg. [[Moy bog gown]]).

''References:''
*

===1400-1600===
Throughout most of this period, it also appears that some Irish were wearing clothing based on the fashions in England, rather than based on traditional Irish construction.

==Extant Garments==

There are very few medieval Irish costumes which have survived to the modern day. Those known are:

===Women's Garments===
*[[moy bog gown|moy bog gown]] 14th - 17th Century
** http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/moy.html
** http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/moy.html
** http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/moy3.html
* [[shinrone gown|shinrone gown]] - late 16th or early 17th Century
** http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/shinrone.html

===Men's Garments===
*[[Dungiven Jacket|Dungiven Jacket]] - late [[16th Century]]
**http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/dungiven.html
*[[Kilcommon Costume|Kilcommon Costume]] - late 16th or early [[17th Century]]
**http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/kilcommon.html

==Construction Details==

There are few good sources which will tell you how to make [[leine]] or the [[Dungiven Jacket]], but ....

Beware of sites which use [[drawstring]]s, [[tartan]]s.

A few sites dealing with reconstucting the above extant garments are listed under the above extant garments, however such instructions are generally more like guidelines and tips for experienced sewers and pattern makers.

[http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/irish.html Reconstructing History] sells patterns for 16th-century Irish garb. Given their excellent reputation for research and interpretation, these patterns will probably be invaluable and good value for the price.

[[category:clothing]]