Cunnan - User contributions [en]

Pike

2004-06-04T19:07:29Z

Jeannette:

A long-arm weapon, resembling a [[spear]].

Historical reenactment

2004-06-04T19:05:35Z

Jeannette:

An event for the purpose of recreating a historical event, most often a battle. In America, Civil War reenactors are the best known example of this. Reenactors have a tendency to look down on the [[SCA]], as our standards are rather more lax and our time period much broader.

Japanese clothing

2004-06-02T18:57:40Z

Jeannette:

Japanese clothing is almost all based on a very simple pattern of rectangles. While any given garment has a characteristic width, in general Japanese fabric is much narrower than European, and the construction of clothing reflects this: it takes about 4 widths to adequately cover an average person.

The basic Japanese garments are the [[kosode]] and [[hakama]], both of which are worn, with monor variations, by men and women alike. The kosode is a robe-like garment which overlaps in front (always left over right, unless the wearer is dead or expects to be shortly); hakama are variously described as a divided skirt or very full pants. The kosode as underwear is invariably white, though when worn as a visible garment it may be any color so long as it is lighter than the hakama. Men's hakama are often black, while women's are often red. Patterns for these two garments may be found [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Jap123s.html here]

Over the kosode and hakama one may wear any number of other robes; this practice reached its full flower in the [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/Irome.htm Heian] period.

For men's costuming, there can be no better source than [http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html Sengoku Daimyo].

Blackwork

2004-06-02T18:45:56Z

Jeannette:

'''Blackwork''' is a form of [[embroidery]] which involves the use of black thread on a white background fabric. Although black was the most popular colour, examples survive that use other colours, including red, blue and purple.

=== Background ===

Blackwork became popular in [[England]] during the reign of [[Henry VIII]], and the style is often called Spanishe Worke, a name given to it due to its introduction to England being linked with the Henry's wife, [[Catherine of Aragon]].

The portrait painter Hans Holbein the Younger became court painter to [[Henry VIII]], and he painted Henry's queens wearing dresses richly decorated with Blackwork. The [[double-running stitch]] employed in '''Blackwork''' is often called [[Holbein stitch]].

During its most popular period of usage, three distinct styles of blackwork emerge, all of which co-existed together.

=== Design Features ===

* Linear, Reversable Blackwork - This is the type of work that most people associate with blackwork. It is a usually a counted thread design (though this is not always the case), which is reversable, that is, it looks the same from the front and the back. This style tends to be linear in nature and was mostly used on collars and cuffs of clothing.

* Its popularity can be attested to by the fact that some form of blackwork can be seen in just about every surviving Tudor and Elizabethan portrait. One painter, Hans Holbein, detailed it so well that the stitch used to make this style of blackwork took on his name - Holbein Stitch. This type of blackwork can be done in either double running or back stitch.

* Free Form Style with Geometric Fill Patterns - This is second most popular form of blackwork. This type of blackwork consists of free form shapes, (most popularly, flowers and leaves) that are then filled in with repeating geometric fill patterns. This type of blackwork was used extensively in the production of pillow covers and various forms of clothing, such as large sleeves, coifs, nightcaps, smocks and skirt foreparts.

* Free Form Outlined Motifs - This type of blackwork comes in two versions.
** The first is the use of scattered, individual motifs on items such as pillow beeres (cases) and other bed linens. These are usually done using stem or chain stitch.
** The other form is a repetitive strapwork pattern, again done in [[stem stitch]] or [[chain stitch]]. Examples can be seen in the portraits of [[Henry VIII]] (shirts) and in skirt foreparts.

=== Materials Used ===

The most common materials for working blackwork in the [[16th Century]] were black [[silk]] thread on a white [[linen]] ground. Many such examples survive today.

=== Stitches and Techniques ===

* [[Holbein stitch]] or [[double-running stitch]] - used mostly for reversable blackwork, used on collars, cuffs and any items where both sides would be visible.
* [[Stem stitch]] - used as an outline stitch when doing free form and geometric blackwork.
* [[Braid]] or plaited stitches - used for making stems or adding texture to free form and geometric blackwork.

=== Extant Pieces ===

* Various Blackwork Pieces - http://images.vam.ac.uk/ (search for "blackwork")
* The Coif Gallery - http://costume.dm.net/headwear/coifpics.html
* Jacket and Skirt - http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Crete/1581/bwgallery/go341.htm
* Jacket - http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Crete/1581/bwgallery/ge40.htm
* Coif - http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Crete/1581/bwgallery/ar50.htm
* Smocks - http://costume.dm.net/va/smocks.html

=== Links To Further Information ===

* Blackwork Embroidery Archives - http://www.blackworkarchives.com/
* Mistress Aspasia's Blackwork Info - http://www.geocities.com/aspasia_blackwork/
* Elizabethan Practical Companion - http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Crete/1581/bwgallery/
* ANG - Blackwork: An Introduction - http://www.needlepoint.org/Archives/Blackwork/Article.htm
* Fill Patterns from 16th C Embroideries - http://aeg.atlantia.sca.org/projects/howto/blackwork/
* Bronwen's Blackwork Library - http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/
* Kiara's Historic Blackwork Page - http://www.angelfire.com/zine/kiarapanther/embroidery/bw.html
* Wikipedia - http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork_Embroidery

=== Sources / Further Reading ===
* "Blackwork Embroidery Patterns" Jane D. Zimmerman. Self-published 1975
* "Blackwork" Elizabeth Geddes & Moyra Mc Neill?. Dover, New York 1974
* "Blackwork" Mary Gostelow. Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York 1976
* "Art of Blackwork Embroidery" Rosemary Drysdale. Scribner, New York 1975

Silk

2004-06-02T17:28:08Z

Jeannette:

'''Silk''' is the finely [[woven]] [[thread]] of the 'silk worm' - a caterpillar (''Bombyx mori'' is the most common species, but there are others) that produces silk while building its cocoon in preparation for pupation.

The thread is taken from the cocoon before the moth fully passes through the chrysalis phase. This process kills the moth, so obviously not every chrysalis is taken.

The colour of the silk depends on what the caterpillars were fed. They require green leaves, and are generally fed on [[mulberry]] leaves which give a very pale blonde or white, depending on species. If the diet is supplemented with rose petals, the thread can come out with a pink tinge.

High-quality silk is reeled rather than [[spun]]; the individual fibers are lifted out of a hot water bath to form threads. Generally only the waste silk from broken cocoons is spun.

=== External Links ===
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk
* http://www.dharmatrading.com/silk_fabrics.html

Felt

2004-06-02T17:24:16Z

Jeannette:

See [[felting]].

Knitting

2004-06-02T17:22:42Z

Jeannette:

'''Knitting''' uses a pair of needles to transform a long ball of thread into a tightly-looped [[fabric]] that is flexible and warm.

=== Knitting-like techniques ===

[[Naalbinding]] could easily be mistaken for knitting if you've never done it - the technique actually uses a needle and short lengths of thread to create the thickly looped fabric. http://www.stringpage.com/old/basicnaal.html

You can knit all sorts of great stuff for winter for the SCA, such as [[scoggers]] and [[socks]].

Weaving

2004-06-02T17:17:47Z

Jeannette:

'''Weaving''' is taking separate [[thread]]s and combining them to make [[fabric]]s or [[braid]] (woven or [[knotted]] cords).

There are several types of weaving:
* [[band weaving]] (including [[Tablet weaving]]) making narrow ribbons of woven material
* [[Loom]] weaving
* Various [[braiding technique]]s
* [[Naalbinding]] (more of a [[needle lace]] than true "weaving", though also looks a lot like [[knitting]] and was commonly mistaken for it at one time)
* Various [[knotting technique]]s
* Various [[lace technique]]s
* [[Sprang]]

In short, weaving is any technique that takes threads and entangles them in a more-or-less orderly fashion so that you end up with a solid piece of fabric or braid.

In the most common form, weaving is performed on a [[loom]] which holds several threads in place (called the [[warp thread]]s) while the weaver passes another thread back-and-forth, lacing these threads in place (this other thread being called the [[weft thread]]).

The warp threads generally form the stengthening shape for the cloth/braid, while the weft thread basically holds them into the shape they are held into while on the loom - so that once the cloth is removed from the loom, it retains its shape.

In [[period]], early [[wheel-spun]] techniques for [[spinning]] thread made a softer, less strong type of thread than the traditional [[whorl-spun]] thread. The wheel-spun threads were actually illegal to use in the warp-thread as they were considered too weak - especially where the cloth/braid was to carry weight. Whorl-spun thread was thus used for quite a long time after [[spinning wheels]] were invented and put to use.

The pattern or colour of the finished (woven) fabric depends on the weights, colours, patterns and methods used for the weaving itself and is highly dependant on which style of weaving is done (eg the list at the top of this page).

Weft

2004-06-02T17:15:52Z

Jeannette:

A weaving term for the threads that are added by the weaver in the course of producing a cloth. The thread on the shuttle is the weft. Generally runs from the weaver's left to right while weaving, and forms the selvage edges where it turns on the sides.

Warp

2004-06-02T17:12:47Z

Jeannette:

In weaving, the threads that are placed on the loom initially. The warp generally runs away from the weaver. Perpendicular to the [[weft]].

Baldric

2004-06-02T17:08:21Z

Jeannette:

A belt-like accessory that goes from the wearer's shoulder to his opposite hip.

Warp faced

2004-06-02T17:07:05Z

Jeannette:

A weaving technique in which the [[warp]] threads--those that are initially put on the loom to set it up--form the pattern. The [[weft]] only acts to hold the structure together and is only seen on the edges of the piece.

Naalbinding

2004-06-02T17:04:21Z

Jeannette:

For this technique, you'll need a largish [[needle]] and whatever yarn you like--preferably [[wool]]. Naalbinding is worked by pulling the entire length of the yarn through every stitch, so you need to work with shorter pieces; about 18 inches (40 cm) is good. Some people say you can join your lengths of yarn by splicing; others claim that's a crock and just weave their ends in. Whatever works.

Naalbinding produces a fairly tight fabric, and unlike [[knitting]] doesn't ladder when you drop a stitch. It shapes easily, and is an ideal candidate for [[sock]]s, [[mitten]]s, and the like. It's slow to work.

[http://www.stringpage.com/naal/naal.html Phiala's String Page--Naalbinding]

Shearing

2004-06-02T16:54:40Z

Jeannette:

Shearing involves cutting the useful [[wool]] from a [[sheep]] or other fur-bearing animal. It is usually done in the early spring, before the animals begin shedding for summer.

Fulling

2004-06-02T16:52:20Z

Jeannette:

Fulling involves taking a [[wool]] object such as a piece of fabric or a knitted hat, and shocking the fibers with temperature changes and agitation until the object shrinks and becomes denser. This makes it extremely unlikely to unravel and reasonably waterproof. [[Felting]] involves the same techniques, but starts with raw fiber and forms a fabric that has not been woven or otherwise shaped.

Felting

2004-06-02T16:50:07Z

Jeannette:

Felting is the process of shocking [[wool]] with temperature changes and agitation until it forms a solid fabric without having to first weave or spin it. [[Fulling]] uses the same techniques, but starts with a completed fabric or object.

Kingdom of Æthelmearc

2004-06-02T16:46:27Z

Jeannette: