Cunnan - User contributions [en]

Ruff

2010-01-01T22:39:25Z

Arrienne: /* Ruff (clothing) */

==Ruff (clothing)==
'''Ruffs''' were a big part of [[Elizabethan clothing]]. A ruff is basically a large, circular set of [[frill]]s worn around the neck.

Ruffs were usually made of linen. If the wearer was rich, the ruff would be made partially or entirely of lace. They began to become popular in the 1560's gradually growing in size through the 1570's to the 1580's. In the 1590's some women had ruffs that were open in the front - connecting from the edge of the square neckline in front, going around the back of the neck to the other side of the square neckline. These were worn with a supportase (a wire or buckram frame in back to hold up the ruff).

The linen or lace ruffs were starched and the pleats were set using a hot metal poker.

The lace ruffs were made using [[punto in aria]], [[reticella]], or [[bobbin lace]].

Rowan Atkinson (as [[Wikipedia:Black Adder|Black Adder]]) described Percy as looking like "a bird that had swallowed a plate" when he made an appearance in an extra wide ruff.

=== External Links ===
* [http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/wsnlinks/index.php?action=displaycat&catid=678 Atlantian A&S Links: Ruffs]
* [http://www.rijksmuseum.nl/aria/aria_assets/BK-NM-13112?lang=en Collar]: the only surviving pleated ruff in the world

Here's a link on how to starch a ruff:
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/ruff.html

==Ruff (game)==
'''Ruff''' is a [[period]] [[card game]] for two pairs involving tricks, that resembles whist. Each player is dealt seven cards. The top card of the remaining three defines what suit is trumps. Whoever has the highest card in trumps picks up the three cards and discards any three, face down. Then play for ordinary tricks. There is no bidding and no wildcards. [[Stormhold]]ers like to play ruff!!! ''(needs the rules to be finished)''

==Ruff (birds)==
An [[eagle]]'s '''ruff''' are the lengthened [[feather]]s that stand out on its neck. This is one way to discriminate between eagles and [[falcon]]s in [[heraldry]]. Also, in [[falconry]] a bird is "ruffing" if it strikes its prey but does not seize and immobilise it.
[[category:clothing]]

Ruff

2010-01-01T22:38:59Z

Arrienne: /* Ruff (clothing) */

==Ruff (clothing)==
'''Ruffs''' were a big part of [[Elizabethan clothing]]. A ruff is basically a large, circular set of [[frill]]s worn around the neck.

Ruffs were usually made of linen. If the wearer was rich, the ruff would be made partially or entirely of lace. They began to become popular in the 1560's gradually growing in size through the 1570's to the 1580's. In the 1590's some women had ruffs that were open in the front - connecting from the edge of the square neckline in front, going around the back of the neck to the other side of the square neckline. These were work with a supportase (a wire or buckram frame in back to hold up the ruff).

The linen or lace ruffs were starched and the pleats were set using a hot metal poker.

The lace ruffs were made using [[punto in aria]], [[reticella]], or [[bobbin lace]].

Rowan Atkinson (as [[Wikipedia:Black Adder|Black Adder]]) described Percy as looking like "a bird that had swallowed a plate" when he made an appearance in an extra wide ruff.

=== External Links ===
* [http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/wsnlinks/index.php?action=displaycat&catid=678 Atlantian A&S Links: Ruffs]
* [http://www.rijksmuseum.nl/aria/aria_assets/BK-NM-13112?lang=en Collar]: the only surviving pleated ruff in the world

Here's a link on how to starch a ruff:
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/ruff.html

==Ruff (game)==
'''Ruff''' is a [[period]] [[card game]] for two pairs involving tricks, that resembles whist. Each player is dealt seven cards. The top card of the remaining three defines what suit is trumps. Whoever has the highest card in trumps picks up the three cards and discards any three, face down. Then play for ordinary tricks. There is no bidding and no wildcards. [[Stormhold]]ers like to play ruff!!! ''(needs the rules to be finished)''

==Ruff (birds)==
An [[eagle]]'s '''ruff''' are the lengthened [[feather]]s that stand out on its neck. This is one way to discriminate between eagles and [[falcon]]s in [[heraldry]]. Also, in [[falconry]] a bird is "ruffing" if it strikes its prey but does not seize and immobilise it.
[[category:clothing]]

Ruff

2010-01-01T22:37:07Z

Arrienne: /* Ruff (clothing) */

==Ruff (clothing)==
'''Ruffs''' were a big part of [[Elizabethan clothing]]. A ruff is basically a large, circular set of [[frill]]s worn around the neck.

Ruffs were usually made of linen. If the wearer was rich, the ruff would be made partially or entirely of lace. They became popular in the 1560's to the 1570's gradually growing in size. In the 1590's some women had ruffs that were open in the front - connecting from the edge of the square neckline in front, going around the back of the neck to the other side of the square neckline. These were work with a supportase (a wire or buckram frame in back to hold up the ruff).

The linen or lace ruffs were starched and the pleats were set using a hot metal poker.

The lace ruffs were made using [[punto in aria]], [[reticella]], or [[bobbin lace]].

Rowan Atkinson (as [[Wikipedia:Black Adder|Black Adder]]) described Percy as looking like "a bird that had swallowed a plate" when he made an appearance in an extra wide ruff.

=== External Links ===
* [http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/wsnlinks/index.php?action=displaycat&catid=678 Atlantian A&S Links: Ruffs]
* [http://www.rijksmuseum.nl/aria/aria_assets/BK-NM-13112?lang=en Collar]: the only surviving pleated ruff in the world

Here's a link on how to starch a ruff:
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/ruff.html

==Ruff (game)==
'''Ruff''' is a [[period]] [[card game]] for two pairs involving tricks, that resembles whist. Each player is dealt seven cards. The top card of the remaining three defines what suit is trumps. Whoever has the highest card in trumps picks up the three cards and discards any three, face down. Then play for ordinary tricks. There is no bidding and no wildcards. [[Stormhold]]ers like to play ruff!!! ''(needs the rules to be finished)''

==Ruff (birds)==
An [[eagle]]'s '''ruff''' are the lengthened [[feather]]s that stand out on its neck. This is one way to discriminate between eagles and [[falcon]]s in [[heraldry]]. Also, in [[falconry]] a bird is "ruffing" if it strikes its prey but does not seize and immobilise it.
[[category:clothing]]

Accessories

2010-01-01T22:30:15Z

Arrienne:

'''Acessories''' are items that are added to an outfit to supplement the basic [[clothing]].

==Examples of Accessories==
*[[Belt]]s
*[[Girdle]]s
*[[Bag]]s
**[[Pouch]]es
**[[Snapsack]]s
**[[pilgrimage|Pilgrims']] [[satchel]]s
*[[Headwear]]
**[[Cap]]s
**[[Coif]]s
**[[Hat]]s
**[[Hood]]s
**[[Fillet]]s
**[[Hair net]]s
**[[veil]]s
*[[Favour]]s
*[[Jewellery]]
*[[Armring]]s
**[[Beading]]
**[[Brooch]]es
**[[Earring]]s
**[[Finger fing]]s
**[[Jeweled girdle]]s
**[[Necklace]]s
**[[Pin]]s
**[[Precious stones]]
*[[Scoggers]]
*Period [[Boots]] and [[shoe]]s
*Period [[Hose]]
*[[Fan]]s
*[[Umbrella]]s
**[[Ruff]]s

[[category:clothing]]

Reticella

2010-01-01T22:27:06Z

Arrienne:

Reticella lace was created by sewing linen to a piece of parchment with a lace pattern drawn on it.
The threads would be drawn from the linen leaving only equally spaced horizontal and vertical bars. The threads would be embroidered and then the lace pattern drawn on the parchment would be embroidered over the bars. It was common in the latter half of the 16th century.

One of the first pattern books containing true reticella patterns was ''Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtraicts'', published in 1587 by Federico Vinciolo in France.

A book with patterns for embroidery over open squares of linen that were smaller than the reticella squares was created in 1550 by Mathio Pagano. It was called ''Giardinetto Novo Di Ponti Tagliati Et Gropposi per Exercito e Ornamento Delle Donne''.

When later, more open forms of needle lace were created, they did not replace the earlier forms of lace. The earlier forms of lace were still being created and used. This is why it is difficult to date 16th century lace to a more exact date within the 16th century.

Many books with embroidery and lace patterns were published in the 16th century. Lace patterns from one book would appear in anther, even if the other book was published years later in a different country by a different auther. An example of this is the pelican in her piety pattern from Singuliers. This pattern is also included in ''Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne'' published in Italy by Cesare Vecellio and also in ''A Schole-House for the Needle'' published in England in 1632.

The pattern books cannot be used to date the earliest time a lace pattern appeared. According to Santina Levey in ''Lace, A History'', the pattern books contained 'tried and true' patterns because they were designed for the amateur, not the professional lace maker.

Cutwork was usually made with white linen thread although there are a few examples of the lace worked using colored silk. Most of the lace displayed in museums are the finest examples of their collections. Some museums have cutwork made with coarser thread that they do not have on display.

== external links ==

Here is a website with more information on reticella and [[punto in aria]]:
http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm

Here is a link to an online facsimile of ''Singuliers et Nouveaux Portraicts'': http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/vinciolo/

Here is a link to an online facsimile of ''Giardinetto Novo Di Ponti Tagliati Et Gropposi per Exercito e Ornamento Delle Donne'':
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/ngl_lace.pdf

Here is a picture of someone in the SCA wearing a cutwork partlet. The partlet was made with 16th century lace pattern. The ruff was made using a 16th century bobbin lace pattern from Le Pompe worked in needle lace. The partlet and the ruff were worked in 80/2 linen thread.

http://laurel.midrealm.org/peer_new.php?input=381

Punto in aria

2010-01-01T22:25:07Z

Arrienne:

'''Punto in Aria''' is one of the earliest forms of [[needle lace]]. It is closely related to [[Reticella]] lace, and the name means "points in the air" due to the technique used to create it.

Reticella was a lace in which threads were drawn out of the fabric and some embroidery stitches used to embellish and hold the remaining stitches in place (as a decorated framework.
Reticella and punto in aria became common in the latter half of the 16th century. Both types of lace were referred to as 'cutwork' in England.

After a while, the laces became more and more "lacy" with more and more gaps - so many threads were pulled out that the fabric became flimsy. Eventually the lacemakers realised that, rather than starting with whole-cloth and removing threads, they could start with nothing, and simply build the framework themselves out of needle-made stitches.

The lace-makers felt they were building their stitches "in the air", thus the name of this technique.

This was the birth of true needle lace. Freed from having to use the structure of the warp/weft of the fabric, Punto in Aria developed flowing, curving structures, triangles and starburst patterns that are often seen in the pictures of lace collars and ruffs from this time-period.
The triangles and starburst patterns were also used in reticella patterns. Both reticella and punto in aria patterns were used in ruffs. However the curved lace edgings on ruffs would be either bobbin lace or punto in aria.

Punto in aria was worked by sewing threads to a piece of parchment with the lace pattern drawn on it and then embroidering over the lace.
One of the first pattern books containing true reticella patterns was Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtraicts, published in 1587 by Federico Vinciolo in France. This book also contains patterns labeled as 'punto in aria'.

Many books with embroidery and lace patterns were published in the 16th century.
Lace patterns from one book would appear in anther, even if the other book was published years later in a different country by a different auther.
An example of this is the pelican in her piety pattern from Singuliers.
This pattern is also included in Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne published in
Italy by Cesare Vecellio and also in A Schole-House for the Needle published in England in 1632.

The pattern books cannot be used to date the earliest time a lace pattern appeared.
According to Santina Levey in Lace, A History, the pattern books contained 'tried and true'
patterns because they were designed for the amateur, not the professional lace maker.

Cutwork was usually made with white linen thread although there are a few examples of the lace worked using colored silk.
Most of the lace displayed in museums are the finest examples of their collections.
Some museums have cutwork made with coarser thread that they do not have on display.

== external links ==

Here is a website with more information on Punto in Aria:
http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm

Here is a link to an online facsimile of Singuliers et Nouveaux Portraicts: http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/vinciolo/

Here is a picture of someone in the SCA wearing a cutwork partlet.
The partlet was made with 16th century lace pattern.
The ruff was made using a 16th century bobbin lace pattern from Le Pompe worked in needle lace.
The partlet and the ruff were worked in 80/2 linen thread. Both the ruff and partlet are punto in aria.

http://laurel.midrealm.org/peer_new.php?input=381

[[category:fabric]]

Needlelace

2010-01-01T22:22:45Z

Arrienne:

'''Needle lace''' became popular in very late period, following on from the drawn thread work that was the earliest of laces.

Needle lace first made its appearance as the form [[punto in aria]] or "points in air" - named thus as it was a material constructed by string from "thin air" and adding bits until you had lace. This was opposed to the drawn thread work (or [[Reticella]]) in which you started from a material and removed bits.

Needle lace generally consists of having a strong edge secured on card or another stiff surface, and using a needle to delicately work many stitches over itself to create a worked area.

It is exceedingly time-consuming (the most time-consuming of all laces), and thus has always been incredibly expensive. Since every stitch is placed individually, there are absolutely no constraints on pattern, allowing for the finest and most complicated of filigree.

Only the most wealthy were able to afford needle lace in any quantity. The larger pieces (such as the Elizabethan ruffs) were often supplemented by cheaper and quicker bobbin lace edges. Some bobbin lace pieces even attempted mimicry of needle lace, with mixed success - there are some things that only needle lace can do.

One common form of needle lace was cutwork - used for household goods and clothing decoration in the 16th century. One form, known by the Italian name of [[reticella]], was done by sewing a piece of linen to parchment with the lace patterns drawn on it. The threads were then drawn from the linen and embroidering the lace patterns in the open squares. Another form, known by the Italian name of [[punto in aria]] was done by embroidering the lace patterns on over drawings of them on parchment.

== external links ==

Here is a website with more information on cutwork:

http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm

Bobbin lace

2010-01-01T22:20:26Z

Arrienne:

'''Bobbin Lace''' is a type of [[lace]] that only began to make an appearance very late in [[period]].

It is made by the twining of pairs of [[thread]]s - wound onto "[[bobbin]]s". The partially-made lace is held in place by fine [[pins]] that hold the intersections between two pairs of threads. When the lace is finished, the pins are removed and the lace holds the correct shape. Sometimes the lace was then starched (for example collars or cuffs) to make it rigid.

In period, the main use for bobbin lace was for collars (the traditional [[Elizabethan]] collar), turned-back sleeve [[edgings]] and as edgings along the dress (eg passements along the [[stomacher]] or [[metallic lace]] along the seams).

One of the best sources to see period bobbin lace is, of course, "Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe Unlock'd" - where there are many pieces of lace (Elizabeth was aparrently quite fond of lace). However, it is often difficult to tell whether the lace is bobbin or [[needle lace]].

While needle lace was preferred, it was *very* expensive due to the vast amount of time it took. As far as I've been told, bobbin lace was often employed as an alternative and, where possible, copied the style of the needle lace. To give a basic understanding of why, bobbin lace generally takes between 1 and 2 hours to do a square inch of lace. Needle lace takes longer...

While quite versatile, bobbin lace suffers from inherent limitations of material that needle lace does not. Consequently, you can quite often identify which is which by looking carefully for such things as triangles in the pattern (a sure sign of needle lace).

Most modern bobbin laces are definitely [[out of period]] - this includes Torchon, Honiton and Bedfordshire (beds) laces. The main type of bobbin lace that was in period was called passements which looked like elaborate arches filled with filigree. These were generally used in a repeating pattern (often two shapes interleaved) and were used at first to edge collars - both for males and females.

Early on, the passements went around a square or circular collar. Later, the passements were often attached to a wider pattern consisting of squares filled with filigree, and this was generally made of needle-lace, though bobbin-lace was also used in these (especially where the person couldn't afford the expense of the needle lace).

The Elizabethan collars were of the same basic pattern, but made in a circular fashion. They were made over a circle in size so that they could be ruffled and the final product would be a circle. The collars were often made with multiple layers sitting on top of one another to increase the "ruffliness" of the lace, these layers starched into wave-patterns.

Metallic laces and other edgings were also frequently made from bobbin lace and often went down the front seams to the full length of the dress.

Have a look through Unlock'd and see the different styles...

If you want to learn to make bobbin lace, I'd recommend learning the modern styles (eg Torchon) which are much easier - then advancing to passements afterwards. There are period pattern-books around- if you find a copy, [[UserTalk:Taryn|tell me and I will buy it!]]

Please Note: "grounds" of any sort are definitely Out Of Period, e.g. Torchon grounds etc - all period bobbin lace was made of filigree-style [[lace brides|brides]] and interlinking sections, though there were sections made of cloth-stitch to make shapes. To get an idea of the "feel" of the type of bobbin lace, look at some Cluny lace and see how it is generally built of loops over-laying loops.
==External Links==
===References===
[http://www.havenonline.com/bobbinlace/default.asp Bobbin lace article from tournament's illuminated]
[[category:fabric]][[category:16th century]]

Here are some articles with instructions on how to make bobbin lace:
http://lochac.sca.org/lochac/artsci/articles/lace.html
http://www.florilegium.org/?http%3A//www.florilegium.org/files/TEXTILES/idxtextiles.html

Here is a website with instructions on making period bobbins:
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/bobbins.html

Needlelace

2010-01-01T22:19:09Z

Arrienne:

'''Needle lace''' became popular in very late period, following on from the drawn thread work that was the earliest of laces.

Needle lace first made its appearance as the form [[punto in aria]] or "points in air" - named thus as it was a material constructed by string from "thin air" and adding bits until you had lace. This was opposed to the drawn thread work (or [[Reticella]]) in which you started from a material and removed bits.

Needle lace generally consists of having a strong edge secured on card or another stiff surface, and using a needle to delicately work many stitches over itself to create a worked area.

It is exceedingly time-consuming (the most time-consuming of all laces), and thus has always been incredibly expensive. Since every stitch is placed individually, there are absolutely no constraints on pattern, allowing for the finest and most complicated of filigree.

Only the most wealthy were able to afford needle lace in any quantity. The larger pieces (such as the Elizabethan ruffs) were often supplemented by cheaper and quicker bobbin lace edges. Some bobbin lace pieces even attempted mimicry of needle lace, with mixed success - there are some things that only needle lace can do.

One common form of needle lace was cutwork - used for household goods and clothing decoration in the 16th century. One form, known by the Italian name of [[reticella]], was done by sewing a piece of linen to parchment with the lace patterns drawn on it. The threads were then drawn from the linen and embroidering the lace patterns in the open squares. Another form, known by the Italian name of [[punto in aria]] was done by embroidering the lace patterns on over drawings of them on parchment.

Here is a website with more information on cutwork:

http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm

Bobbin lace

2010-01-01T22:13:28Z

Arrienne: /* References */

'''Bobbin Lace''' is a type of [[lace]] that only began to make an appearance very late in [[period]].

It is made by the twining of pairs of [[thread]]s - wound onto "[[bobbin]]s". The partially-made lace is held in place by fine [[pins]] that hold the intersections between two pairs of threads. When the lace is finished, the pins are removed and the lace holds the correct shape. Sometimes the lace was then starched (for example collars or cuffs) to make it rigid.

In period, the main use for bobbin lace was for collars (the traditional [[Elizabethan]] collar), turned-back sleeve [[edgings]] and as edgings along the dress (eg passements along the [[stomacher]] or [[metallic lace]] along the seams).

One of the best sources to see period bobbin lace is, of course, "Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe Unlock'd" - where there are many pieces of lace (Elizabeth was aparrently quite fond of lace). However, it is often difficult to tell whether the lace is bobbin or [[needle lace|needle-made lace]].

While needle lace was preferred, it was *very* expensive due to the vast amount of time it took. As far as I've been told, bobbin lace was often employed as an alternative and, where possible, copied the style of the needle lace. To give a basic understanding of why, bobbin lace generally takes between 1 and 2 hours to do a square inch of lace. Needle lace takes longer...

While quite versatile, bobbin lace suffers from inherent limitations of material that needle lace does not. Consequently, you can quite often identify which is which by looking carefully for such things as triangles in the pattern (a sure sign of needle lace).

Most modern bobbin laces are definitely [[out of period]] - this includes Torchon, Honiton and Bedfordshire (beds) laces. The main type of bobbin lace that was in period was called passements which looked like elaborate arches filled with filigree. These were generally used in a repeating pattern (often two shapes interleaved) and were used at first to edge collars - both for males and females.

Early on, the passements went around a square or circular collar. Later, the passements were often attached to a wider pattern consisting of squares filled with filigree, and this was generally made of needle-lace, though bobbin-lace was also used in these (especially where the person couldn't afford the expense of the needle lace).

The Elizabethan collars were of the same basic pattern, but made in a circular fashion. They were made over a circle in size so that they could be ruffled and the final product would be a circle. The collars were often made with multiple layers sitting on top of one another to increase the "ruffliness" of the lace, these layers starched into wave-patterns.

Metallic laces and other edgings were also frequently made from bobbin lace and often went down the front seams to the full length of the dress.

Have a look through Unlock'd and see the different styles...

If you want to learn to make bobbin lace, I'd recommend learning the modern styles (eg Torchon) which are much easier - then advancing to passements afterwards. There are period pattern-books around- if you find a copy, [[UserTalk:Taryn|tell me and I will buy it!]]

Please Note: "grounds" of any sort are definitely Out Of Period, e.g. Torchon grounds etc - all period bobbin lace was made of filigree-style [[lace brides|brides]] and interlinking sections, though there were sections made of cloth-stitch to make shapes. To get an idea of the "feel" of the type of bobbin lace, look at some Cluny lace and see how it is generally built of loops over-laying loops.
==External Links==
===References===
[http://www.havenonline.com/bobbinlace/default.asp Bobbin lace article from tournament's illuminated]
[[category:fabric]][[category:16th century]]

Here are some articles with instructions on how to make bobbin lace:
http://lochac.sca.org/lochac/artsci/articles/lace.html
http://www.florilegium.org/?http%3A//www.florilegium.org/files/TEXTILES/idxtextiles.html

Here is a website with instructions on making period bobbins:
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/bobbins.html

Arts

2010-01-01T22:10:58Z

Arrienne: /* Decorative arts */

<div style="float:right; margin: 0 0 1em 1em;">[[Image:arts.png]]</div>
== Arts and Craft Topics ==
=== Researching and documentation ===
*[[why research]]
*how to begin [[researching]]
*how [[documentation]] works
*should I enter that A&S [[competition]]

=== Cooking & Brewing ===
*[[Brewing]]
*[[Feasting]]
*[[Food]]
**[[Subtleties]]
**[[Medieval Recipe]]s

=== Smithing ===
*[[Armour]]
*[[Weapons]]
*[[Jewellery]] and [[piecework]]

=== [[Clothing]] ===

*[[Fashion]]
*[[Shoes]]
*[[Early Period Dress]] (pre 1380)
**[[Viking Garb]]
*[[Gothic Dress]] (1300-1480)
*[[Late Period Dress]] (1480-end of SCA period)
*[[Accessories]]
*[[index of clothing styles]]

=== Decorative arts ===
*[[Embroidery]] and [[Beading]]
*[[Bobbin lace]]
*[[Drawn thread work]] and [[needlelace]]
*[[punto in aria]]
*[[reticella]]
*[[Stencil]]ling and [[Fabric painting]]
*[[Stone Carving]]

=== Textile and Fibre Arts ===
*[[Dyeing]]
*[[Loom weaving]]
*[[Spinning]]
*[[Tablet weaving]]
*[[Tapestry]] weaving
*various [[braiding technique]]s
*various [[knitting]] techniques (or similar)

=== Performance ===
*[[Instrumental music]]
*[[Poetry]]
*[[Renaissance dance]]
*[[Singing]]
*[[Theatre]]

=== Writing and artwork ===
*[[Calligraphy]] & [[Illumination]]
*[[Cartography]] ([[Maps]])
*[[Language]]
*[[Illumination]]
*Medieval [[literature]]
*[[Painting]]

=== Construction ===
*[[Pavillion]]
*[[Housing]]
*[[Ships]]
*[[Furniture]]- see also [[woodworking]]
*[[Siege weapons]]

=== Household ===
*[[Bedding]]
*[[Tablewares]]
*period ways of [[lighting]] spaces (including [[oil lamps]] and [[candles]])
*[[household tools]]
*[[haircare]]
[[category:arts]]

===Birding Arts===
*[[Falconry]]
*[[Aviculture]]: the keeping and raising of companion birds, including domesticated birds ([[finches]], [[canaries]], and [[doves]]) and, most commonly, [[parrots]] which are wild birds socialized to humans but not domesticated.

Arts

2010-01-01T22:04:20Z

Arrienne: /* Decorative arts */

<div style="float:right; margin: 0 0 1em 1em;">[[Image:arts.png]]</div>
== Arts and Craft Topics ==
=== Researching and documentation ===
*[[why research]]
*how to begin [[researching]]
*how [[documentation]] works
*should I enter that A&S [[competition]]

=== Cooking & Brewing ===
*[[Brewing]]
*[[Feasting]]
*[[Food]]
**[[Subtleties]]
**[[Medieval Recipe]]s

=== Smithing ===
*[[Armour]]
*[[Weapons]]
*[[Jewellery]] and [[piecework]]

=== [[Clothing]] ===

*[[Fashion]]
*[[Shoes]]
*[[Early Period Dress]] (pre 1380)
**[[Viking Garb]]
*[[Gothic Dress]] (1300-1480)
*[[Late Period Dress]] (1480-end of SCA period)
*[[Accessories]]
*[[index of clothing styles]]

=== Decorative arts ===
*[[Embroidery]] and [[Beading]]
*[[Bobbin lacemaking]]
*[[Drawn thread work]] and [[needlelace]]
*[[punto in aria]]
*[[reticella]]
*[[Stencil]]ling and [[Fabric painting]]
*[[Stone Carving]]

=== Textile and Fibre Arts ===
*[[Dyeing]]
*[[Loom weaving]]
*[[Spinning]]
*[[Tablet weaving]]
*[[Tapestry]] weaving
*various [[braiding technique]]s
*various [[knitting]] techniques (or similar)

=== Performance ===
*[[Instrumental music]]
*[[Poetry]]
*[[Renaissance dance]]
*[[Singing]]
*[[Theatre]]

=== Writing and artwork ===
*[[Calligraphy]] & [[Illumination]]
*[[Cartography]] ([[Maps]])
*[[Language]]
*[[Illumination]]
*Medieval [[literature]]
*[[Painting]]

=== Construction ===
*[[Pavillion]]
*[[Housing]]
*[[Ships]]
*[[Furniture]]- see also [[woodworking]]
*[[Siege weapons]]

=== Household ===
*[[Bedding]]
*[[Tablewares]]
*period ways of [[lighting]] spaces (including [[oil lamps]] and [[candles]])
*[[household tools]]
*[[haircare]]
[[category:arts]]

===Birding Arts===
*[[Falconry]]
*[[Aviculture]]: the keeping and raising of companion birds, including domesticated birds ([[finches]], [[canaries]], and [[doves]]) and, most commonly, [[parrots]] which are wild birds socialized to humans but not domesticated.

Needlelace

2010-01-01T22:03:12Z

Arrienne:

One common form of needle lace was cutwork - used for household goods and clothing decoration in the 16th century. One form, known by the Italian name of [[reticella]], was done by sewing a piece of linen to parchment with the lace patterns drawn on it. The threads were then drawn from the linen and embroidering the lace patterns in the open squares. Another form, known by the Italian name of [[punto in aria]] was done by embroidering the lace patterns on over drawings of them on parchment.

Here is a website with more information on cutwork:

http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm

Reticella

2010-01-01T22:01:29Z

Arrienne:

Reticella lace was created by sewing linen to a piece of parchment with a lace pattern drawn on it.
The threads would be drawn from the linen leaving only equally spaced horizontal and vertical bars. The threads would be embroidered and then the lace pattern drawn on the parchment would be embroidered over the bars. It was common in the latter half of the 16th century.

One of the first pattern books containing true reticella patterns was ''Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtraicts'', published in 1587 by Federico Vinciolo in France.
Here is a link to an online facsimile: http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/vinciolo/

A book with patterns for embroidery over open squares of linen that were smaller than the reticella squares was created in 1550 by Mathio Pagano. It was called ''Giardinetto Novo Di Ponti Tagliati Et Gropposi per Exercito e Ornamento Delle Donne''. Here is a link to an online facsimile:
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/ngl_lace.pdf

When later, more open forms of needle lace were created, they did not replace the earlier forms of lace. The earlier forms of lace were still being created and used. This is why it is difficult to date 16th century lace to a more exact date within the 16th century.

Many books with embroidery and lace patterns were published in the 16th century. Lace patterns from one book would appear in anther, even if the other book was published years later in a different country by a different auther. An example of this is the pelican in her piety pattern from Singuliers. This pattern is also included in ''Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne'' published in Italy by Cesare Vecellio and also in ''A Schole-House for the Needle'' published in England in 1632.

The pattern books cannot be used to date the earliest time a lace pattern appeared. According to Santina Levey in ''Lace, A History'', the pattern books contained 'tried and true' patterns because they were designed for the amateur, not the professional lace maker.

Cutwork was usually made with white linen thread although there are a few examples of the lace worked using colored silk. Most of the lace displayed in museums are the finest examples of their collections. Some museums have cutwork made with coarser thread that they do not have on display.

Here is a website with more information on reticella and [[punto in aria]]:
http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm

Here is a picture of someone in the SCA wearing a cutwork partlet. The partlet was made with 16th century lace pattern. The ruff was made using a 16th century bobbin lace pattern from Le Pompe worked in needle lace. The partlet and the ruff were worked in 80/2 linen thread.

http://laurel.midrealm.org/peer_new.php?input=381

Drawn thread work

2010-01-01T21:58:36Z

Arrienne:

'''Drawn-thread work''' is generally considered to be among the first types of true [[lace]]. It was created by taking ordinary [[linen]], and pulling out certain threads, or cutting other threads, to create spaces in the linen, and stitching around the holes to makes sure they remained strong. This is similar in principle to modern hardanger, but hardanger itself is very much [[out of period]].

The holes were not at first left completely empty. Any remaining threads were left as a framework for elaborate embroidery - this style was known as [[reticella]].

Laces made in this fashion were quite popular and were used in collars, cuffs and table-ware. They were often mixed with elaborate embroidery, including beautiful pieces where there are alternating squares of embroidered fabric with 'non-squares' of reticella lace.

Patterns were constrained by the [[warp]] and [[weft]] of the fabric itself. Having to draw out the threads was also difficult, this added to the fact that the lacier it becomes (ie the more threads you draw out), the flimsier the framework is.

Eventually, lace-makers didn't bother drawing threads out and simply cut out a space and built their framework in the gap - which became known as "[[Punto in aria]]" = "points in the air".

[[Category: embroidery]]

Punto in aria

2010-01-01T21:55:57Z

Arrienne:

'''Punto in Aria''' is one of the earliest forms of [[needle lace]]. It is closely related to [[Reticella]] lace, and the name means "points in the air" due to the technique used to create it.

Reticella was a lace in which threads were drawn out of the fabric and some embroidery stitches used to embellish and hold the remaining stitches in place (as a decorated framework.
Reticella and punto in aria became common in the latter half of the 16th century. Both types of lace were referred to as 'cutwork' in England.

After a while, the laces became more and more "lacy" with more and more gaps - so many threads were pulled out that the fabric became flimsy. Eventually the lacemakers realised that, rather than starting with whole-cloth and removing threads, they could start with nothing, and simply build the framework themselves out of needle-made stitches.

The lace-makers felt they were building their stitches "in the air", thus the name of this technique.

This was the birth of true needle lace. Freed from having to use the structure of the warp/weft of the fabric, Punto in Aria developed flowing, curving structures, triangles and starburst patterns that are often seen in the pictures of lace collars and ruffs from this time-period.
The triangles and starburst patterns were also used in reticella patterns. Both reticella and punto in aria patterns were used in ruffs. However the curved lace edgings on ruffs would be either bobbin lace or punto in aria.

Punto in aria was worked by sewing threads to a piece of parchment with the lace pattern drawn on it and then embroidering over the lace.
One of the first pattern books containing true reticella patterns was Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtraicts, published in 1587 by Federico Vinciolo in France. This book also contains patterns labeled as 'punto in aria'. Here is a link to an online facsimile: http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/vinciolo/

Many books with embroidery and lace patterns were published in the 16th century.
Lace patterns from one book would appear in anther, even if the other book was published years later in a different country by a different auther.
An example of this is the pelican in her piety pattern from Singuliers.
This pattern is also included in Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne published in
Italy by Cesare Vecellio and also in A Schole-House for the Needle published in England in 1632.

The pattern books cannot be used to date the earliest time a lace pattern appeared.
According to Santina Levey in Lace, A History, the pattern books contained 'tried and true'
patterns because they were designed for the amateur, not the professional lace maker.

Cutwork was usually made with white linen thread although there are a few examples of the lace worked using colored silk.
Most of the lace displayed in museums are the finest examples of their collections.
Some museums have cutwork made with coarser thread that they do not have on display.

Here is a website with more information on Punto in Aria:
http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm

Here is a picture of someone in the SCA wearing a cutwork partlet.
The partlet was made with 16th century lace pattern.
The ruff was made using a 16th century bobbin lace pattern from Le Pompe worked in needle lace.
The partlet and the ruff were worked in 80/2 linen thread. Both the ruff and partlet are punto in aria.

http://laurel.midrealm.org/peer_new.php?input=381

[[category:fabric]]

Punto in aria

2010-01-01T21:50:55Z

Arrienne:

Reticella

2010-01-01T21:36:08Z

Arrienne:

Reticella lace was created by sewing linen to a piece of parchment with a lace pattern drawn on it.
The threads would be drawn from the linen leaving only equally spaced horizontal and vertical bars. The threads would be embroidered and then the lace pattern drawn on the parchment would be embroidered over the bars. It was common in the latter half of the 16th century.

One of the first pattern books containing true reticella patterns was [[Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtraicts]], published in 1587 by Federico Vinciolo in France.
Here is a link to an online facsimile: http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/vinciolo/

A book with patterns for embroidery over open squares of linen that were smaller than the reticella squares was created in 1550 by Mathio Pagano. It was called [[Giardinetto Novo Di Ponti Tagliati Et Gropposi per Exercito e Ornamento Delle Donne]]. Here is a link to an online facsimile:
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/ngl_lace.pdf

When later, more open forms of needle lace were created, they did not replace the earlier forms of lace. The earlier forms of lace were still being created and used. This is why it is difficult to date 16th century lace to a more exact date within the 16th century.

Many books with embroidery and lace patterns were published in the 16th century. Lace patterns from one book would appear in anther, even if the other book was published years later in a different country by a different auther. An example of this is the pelican in her piety pattern from Singuliers. This pattern is also included in [[Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne]] published in Italy by Cesare Vecellio and also in [[A Schole-House for the Needle]] published in England in 1632.

The pattern books cannot be used to date the earliest time a lace pattern appeared. According to Santina Levey in [[Lace, A History]], the pattern books contained 'tried and true' patterns because they were designed for the amateur, not the professional lace maker.

Cutwork was usually made with white linen thread although there are a few examples of the lace worked using colored silk. Most of the lace displayed in museums are the finest examples of their collections. Some museums have cutwork made with coarser thread that they do not have on display.

Here is a website with more information on reticella and punto in aria:
http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm

Here is a picture of someone in the SCA wearing a cutwork partlet. The partlet was made with 16th century lace pattern. The ruff was made using a 16th century bobbin lace pattern from Le Pompe worked in needle lace. The partlet and the ruff were worked in 80/2 linen thread.

http://laurel.midrealm.org/peer_new.php?input=381

Reticella

2010-01-01T21:28:40Z

Arrienne:

Reticella

2010-01-01T21:23:45Z

Arrienne:

Punto in aria

2010-01-01T20:28:56Z

Arrienne:

Needlelace

2010-01-01T20:23:10Z

Arrienne:

One common form of needle lace was cutwork - used for household goods and clothing decoration in the 16th century. One form, known by the Italian name of Reticella, was done by sewing a piece of linen to parchment with the lace patterns drawn on it. The threads were then drawn from the linen and embroidering the lace patterns in the open squares. Another form, known by the Italian name of Punto in Aria was done by embroidering the lace patterns on over drawings of them on parchment.

Here is a website with more information on cutwork:

http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm