Cunnan - User contributions [en]

Bobbin lace

2004-06-16T09:37:20Z

222.95.24.182:

'''Bobbin Lace''' is a type of [[lace]] that only began to make an appearance very late in [[period]].

It is made by the twining of pairs of [[thread]]s - wound onto "[[bobbin]]s". The partially-made lace is held in place by fine [[pins]] that hold the intersections between two pairs of threads. When the lace is finished, the pins are removed and the lace holds the correct shape. Sometimes the lace was then starched (for example collars or cuffs) to make it rigid.

In period, the main use for bobbin lace was for collars (the traditional [[Elizabethan]] collar), turned-back sleeve [[edgings]] and as edgings along the dress (eg passements along the [[stomacher]] or [[metallic lace]] along the seams).

One of the best sources to see period bobbin lace is, of course, "Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe Unlock'd" - where there are many pieces of lace (Elizabeth was aparrently quite fond of lace). However, it is often difficult to tell whether the lace is bobbin or [[needle lace|needle-made lace]].

While needle lace was preferred, it was *very* expensive due to the vast amount of time it took. As far as I've been told, bobbin lace was often employed as an alternative and, where possible, copied the style of the needle lace. To give a basic understanding of why, bobbin lace generally takes between 1 and 2 hours to do a square inch of lace. Needle lace takes longer...

While quite versatile, bobbin lace suffers from inherent limitations of material that needle lace does not. Consequently, you can quite often identify which is which by looking carefully for such things as triangles in the pattern (a sure sign of needle lace).

Most modern bobbin laces are definitely [[out of period]] - this includes Torchon, Honiton and Bedfordshire (beds) laces. The main type of bobbin lace that was in period was called passements which looked like elaborate arches filled with filigree. These were generally used in a repeating pattern (often two shapes interleaved) and were used at first to edge collars - both for males and females.

Early on, the passements went around a square or circular collar. Later, the passements were often attached to a wider pattern consisting of squares filled with filigree, and this was generally made of needle-lace, though bobbin-lace was also used in these (especially where the person couldn't afford the expense of the needle lace).

The Elizabethan collars were of the same basic pattern, but made in a circular fashion. They were made over a circle in size so that they could be ruffled and the final product would be a circle. The collars were often made with multiple layers sitting on top of one another to increase the "ruffliness" of the lace, these layers starched into wave-patterns.

Metallic laces and other edgings were also frequently made from bobbin lace and often went down the front seams to the full length of the dress.

Have a look through Unlock'd and see the different styles...

If you want to learn to make bobbin lace, I'd recommend learning the modern styles (eg Torchon) which are much easier - then advancing to passements afterwards. There are period pattern-books around- if you find a copy, [[UserTalk:Taryn|tell me and I will buy it!]]

Please Note: "grounds" of any sort are definitely Out Of Period, e.g. Torchon grounds etc - all period bobbin lace was made of filigree-style [[lace brides|brides]] and interlinking sections, though there were sections made of cloth-stitch to make shapes. To get an idea of the "feel" of the type of bobbin lace, look at some Cluny lace and see how it is generally built of loops over-laying loops.
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references:
[http://www.havenonline.com/bobbinlace/default.asp Bobbin lace article from tournament's illuminated]

Rules of the list

2004-06-16T09:33:58Z

222.95.24.182:

Rules of the List:

# Each [[combatant]], recognising the possibilities of physical injury to him/herself in such [[combat]], shall assume all risk unto him/herself all risk and liability for harm suffered by means of such combat. No combatant shall engage in such combat until he/she has inspected the [[field]] of combat and satisfied him/herself that it is suitable for combat. Other participants shall likewise recognise the risks involved in their presence on or near the field of combat, and shall assume unto themselves the liability thereof.
# No person shall engage in combat-related activities (including [[armoured combat]], period [[fencing]], [[combat archery]], [[scouting]] and [[banner bearing]] in combat) outside of formal [[training]] sessions unless he/she shall have been properly [[authorised]] under [[Society]] and [[Kingdom]] procedure.
# All combatants must be presented to, and accepted to, the [[Sovereign]] or his or her representative.
# All combatants shall adhere to the appropriate [[armour and weapons standards]] of the Society, and to any additional standards of the Kingdom in which the event takes place. The Sovereign may waive the additional Kingdom standards.
# The Sovereign or [[marshallate]] may bar any [[weapon]] or [[armour]] from use upon the field of combat. Should a rostered marshal bar any weapon or armour, an appeal may be made to the Sovereign to allow the weapon or armour.
# Combatants shall behave in a [[knight]]ly or [[chivalrous manner]] and shall fight according to the appropriate Society and Kingdom [[conventions of combat]].
# No one may be required to participate in combat-related activities. Any combatant may, without dishonour or penalty, reject any challenge without specifying a reason. A fight in a [[tournament]] lists is not considered to be a challenge, and therefore may not be declined or rejected without forfeiting the bout.
# Fighting with real weapons, whether fast or slow, is forbidden at any Society event. This rule does not consider weaponry which meets the Society and Kingdom standards for traditional Society combat and/or Society period [[rapier]] combat, used in the context of mutual sport, to be real weaponry.
# No projectile weaponry shall be allowed and no weapon shall be thrown within the lists of a tournament. The use of approved [[projectile weapons]] for [[melee]], [[war]], or [[combat archery]] shall conform to the appropriate Society and Kingdom [[conventions of combat]].
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Kingdom

2004-06-16T09:30:55Z

222.95.24.182:

A kingdom in the [[society]] is a sovereign entity which is entitled to select a [[King]] and [[Queen]] by means of a [[Crown Tournament]]. To form a kingdom, the following requirements must be fulfilled:
* At least 400 subscribed [[SCA membership|members]]
* Candidates for all [[officer]] positions
* Have a registered name and [[device]]
* Consensus from the members of the proposed kingdom in favour of the advancement
* A record of well attended [[event]]s, study/[[guild]] meetings, demonstations and other educational activities for the benefit of members and the rest of the community
* Sufficient members of the orders conferring to the [[Patent of Arms]], so there are enough people to advise [[Crown]] regarding admission of candidates to these [[Order]]s
* Sufficient number of [[fighter]]s of such calibre to invest the competition for the Crown with dignity and value for its merits (so basically enough good fighters who can become [[King]] or [[Queen]], and make good role models)
* Have a newsletter and publication
* Have established all the mundane laws and encorporated SCA laws, and have all the boring paperwork official stuff ready.

== The Sovereign Kingdoms of the [[Society for Creative Anachronism]] ==
* [[Kingdom of the West]] - May 1, [[A.S. I]] (1966)
* [[Kingdom of East]] - June, [[A.S. III]] (1968)
* [[Kingdom of Middle]] - September, [[A.S. IV]] (1969)
* [[Kingdom of Atenveldt]] - January, [[A.S. V]] (1971)
* [[Kingdom of Meridies]] - January, [[A.S. XII]] (1978)
* [[Kingdom of Caid]] - June, [[A.S. XIII]] (1978)
* [[Kingdom of Ansteorra]] - June, [[A.S. XIV]] (1979)
* [[Kingdom of Atlantia]] - May, [[A.S. XVI]] (1981)
* [[Kingdom of An Tir]] - January, [[A.S. XVI]] (1982)
* [[Kingdom of Calontir]] - February, [[A.S. XVIII]] (1984)
* [[Kingdom of Trimaris]] - September [[A.S. XX]] (1985)
* [[Kingdom of Outlands]] - June, [[A.S. XXI]] (1986)
* [[Kingdom of Drachenwald]] - June, [[A.S. XXVIII]] (1993)
* [[Kingdom of Artemisia]] - July, [[A.S. XXXII]] (1997)
* [[Kingdom of ƴhelmearc]] - September, [[A.S. XXXII]] (1997)
* [[Kingdom of Ealdormere]] - October, [[A.S. XXXIII]] (1998)
* [[Kingdom of Lochac]] ([[Australia]]) - July [[A.S. XXXVII]] ([[2002]]), formerly a [[Principality]] of the [[West]]

The [[West]] was the first Kingdom to be established, in [[1966]]. The date of the first event (1st May, 1966) is reckoned to be the date the SCA started, and the term [[Anno Societatus]] was coined to create a calender. As of March, [[2004]] we are in [[A.S. XXXVIII]], and on the 1st of May we start [[A.S. XXXIX]].
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===External Links===
* http://www.sca.org/geography/welcome.html